Summary and Data Synthetic Oils =============================== Note from editor of this article: --------------------------------- I collected several articles on synthetic oil which seem to contain more fact than opinions. I went through the trouble to verify some of these facts, and also added the data for the new Castrol Syntec. The conclusion is that synthetic engine oils are indeed better than regular oils, though you may not use your car in such a way to get full benefit of the oil. Even a good quality mineral oil changed at regular intervals (around 3000 miles or 5000 km seems to be the norm) for average use will allow most car engines to last well beyond other components' useful lives. The first article is an excellent detailed technical description on oils, followed by a couple additional notes derived from another posting. Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some additional notes ===================== The following notes are derived from a posting by mvs@mink.att.com (michael.a.van stolk). SWITCH OVER: ============ By the way when you add synthetics to an "old" engine, it will spend the 1st 5-15K removing the old gunk. This is why YOU MUST change the oil filter regularly at first, it gunks up with your engine dirt. (80K miles on a car, change oil filter at 83K, 86k, 90K, etc...). Also your engine may start dripping on the floor. Don't blame the synthetic. It will do this because the wax is being removed from the inside of the engine and the seals are dry from not having been exposed to oil to keep them fresh for a long time. As the new oil reaches the gaskets and seals, they will expand to fill the cracks. COST: ===== It is cheaper than regular oil. I used to change my car oil every 2000 miles incl filter (5*$1.25 + $3.00 = 9.25 every 2000 miles. Now I change it every 6000 miles (5*$3.25(kmart price) + $3.00) = 19.25 for 6000 miles. 19.25 for synthetic for 6Kmiles versus $27.50 regular. You may not like my numbers, but the oil costs are K-mart retail. Please use a QUALITY 2-STAGE filter which will bypass the oil should it gunk up in the future(shame on you). [NOTE: Castrol recommends retaining the original manufacturers interval, even with synthetic oils. jhv] OIL PRESSURE: ============= Your oil presure may drop once you add it. This is ok since oil pressure measures how much oil IS NOT GETTING TO YOUR ENGINE PARTS. What you want is the oil to flow between the mating surfaces and lubricate properly. A typical drop in 5-10lbs is ok with no negative effects. (This one will take a while to accept, I know) [NOTE: That may be part of the cause, personally I contribute it to the lower viscosity or better pourability of synthetic oils. jhv] =============================================================================== Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: [W] G60 30k service Qs In article <1993Aug5.213945.9606@wuecl.wustl.edu> christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos) writes: >In article jtong73@ursa.calvin.edu (Joanna Tong) writes: >> >>I just want to second what Jan says about 5w50 syntech. It definitely is >>the best oil I have run. I have had it in my 2.0 for over 2500 miles and it >>is still not dark but looks just like how it looked when I poured it in - with >>the exception that it is a slight bit browner. There has been no consumption >>at all on my car either - mileage has been good, and I bet part of it has been >>due to this oil. >> >>Peter Tong > > Ok, Peter (and Jan, and anyone else using Syntec) can you be a little more specific on >why you liked the Syntec so much? Any opinions are welcome, subjective or otherwise. It's probably more than subjective because it was quite noticable in my G60: When you start in the morning with a cold engine, the engine "feels" warmed up, less "sluggish" when you accelerate. In fact, there is little difference between a warm or a cold engine in the way it responds, except which can be contributed to a cold fuel system (5th inj, air cold ==> inefficient air fuel mix/freezing). When warm, the car feels peppier as well, easier to get up to speed. Some have reported that the car slows down less when you take your foot off the gas. I did not notice anything like that though. >I mean the fact that it doesn't get black would also be a minus (less effective detergent package), >and little or no oil consumption could mean that it's too thick to pass through valves and >rings (thus less lubrication?) It will turn rather dark after a while, but it seems to take longer. Also the reduced consumption may have been purely coincidental with my engine finally being worn in after 30k miles.... However, others have reported similar effects with (other) synthetics in older engines. I am not sure what all this means, less break down, better sealing for the rings, less detergents? And I don't think this stuff is too thick, it's about as fluid as water (vs thick maple sirup for regular oils), which did make me a bit worried. I am most worried about the G60 bearing...the G60 spins really fast and it uses engine oil pressure for lubrication. Whether it is really protecting the engine better, naturally I cannot tell you, I have not done an analysis of the oil. However, my friend in Europe who races his very expensive 944 Turbo "S" only uses Castrol Syntec (called "RS" over there), same as the other members of his Porsche club. So I figured, it can't be too bad. With Synthetics, I almost feel comfortable changing the oil at the recommended interval of 7500 miles (which is what Castrol themselves recommended for "normal" duty!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: cac@mtmis1.mis.semi.harris.com (Clint Chamberlin) Subject: Re: Make Best of Synthetic Oil? Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1993 13:27:09 GMT Organization: HARRIS Semiconductor, QC Dept. Sender: news@mlb.semi.harris.com JIE YUAN, CHEMISTRY, U. CINCINNATI (yuanj@ucbeh.san.uc.edu) wrote: : Just some thoughts about the synthetic oil: : : Almost all the products in the marcket are possibly silicone type, : very resistant to oxidation, and would last very long. : : How do one filter out the junk in the oil circulation system to take : full advantage of the synthetic oil? Synthetic oil is very expensive. It does : not make sense to change it often. But the engine will generate some : sediments no matter what oil is used. Too much of the junk will degrade the : lubricating function of the oil. Redesign the lubrication system? : : Can't all the cars, at least all the newly designed cars, utilize : synthetic oil? It must save a lot of oil and do tne environment a lot of : good! You are right on all counts. Try AMSOIL spin on filters that remove 1 micron particles as opposed to std FRAM and AC that remove 25 micron. AMSOIL also has a bypass filter that essentially elminates the need to change oil. Many truckers never change their oil with this. It costs around $109 retail(you can get it for $89 as a dealer. Call 715-393-7101 for a dealer near you or more info. -- _______________________________________________________________________ | Clint Chamberlin | "Not tonite, honey... I have a modem" | | HARRIS SEMICONDUCTOR | Internet: cac@mtmis1.mis.semi.harris.com | | Mountaintop, PA | Phone: 717-474-3240 Fax: 717-474-3279 | ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From ug!uunet!noc.near.net!nic.umass.edu!caen!nigel.msen.com!yale.edu!yale!gumby! wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!nj.nec.com!news Tue Feb 16 09:51:40 PST 1993 Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech Subject: REPOST: Comprehensive Oil Article (Was: Re: Synthetic oils: better than, say, Castrol GTX?) From: behanna@phoenix.syl.nj.nec.com (Chris BeHanna) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 93 06:40:32 GMT Reply-To: behanna@syl.nj.nec.com Organization: NEC Systems Laboratory, Inc. Lines: 610 In article <1993Feb12.161234.6244@beaver.cs.washington.edu> dylan@cs.washington.edu (Dylan McNamee) writes: > >Addressing the original question, which is better, Castrol GTX changed >every 3,000 miles, or a synthetic oil changed at 3,000 or 5,000, or 7,000? >When it comes down to it, the extra cost (about $7/4 quarts vs $16/4 quarts) >would be worth it, if there was a difference. If you're operating under *severe* conditions, e.g., racing, then it might be worth it. All that I have heard from people who have torn down motors beyond 80K is that if you change the oil and filter every 3K, then the crosshatch from the original factory cylinder honing will still be visible in the cylinder bores. Sounds like dead dinosaurs do the job just fine. >I must have missed the "conclusive" report posted earlier, so maybe it's >time for a repost, or at least a followup discussion. It is included at the end of this article. >One more question; has anyone tried Kendall Oils? My father swears by >them, claiming the other brands spend their money (and hence your cost) >on advertising, whereas Kendall oil is just higher quality. From what I understand, Castrol uses the best additive package of all dead dinosaur oils, so that's what I use. Kendall is commonly used by dealership service departments, which I don't trust to do anything except maximize their profit, so I don't respect their choice of oil. That, of course, is nothing but my own personal bias and should be taken or discarded as such. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: scottst@microsoft.com (Scott Stiles) Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil Organization: Microsoft Corp. Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 21:25:24 GMT Distribution: usa Lines: 322 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- First, I will answer a couple of questions asked by another. Yes, it is OK to mix mineral and syntetic oils. One of the early synthetics used was a Polyalkylene Glycol. This was totally incompatable and would gel when mixed. This has not been used for years for automotive lubrication. All common syntetics used for engine lubrication now days are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL). These are fully compatable with conventional oils. In fact Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000 are mixtures of mineral and synthetic oils. It is always best to mix oils with the same rating (SG). This insures that the additive packages are compatable and will maintain their effectiveness. All engine oils use an organic zinc compound as an extreme pressure/anti wear additive. Spectro adds more to their Motorcycle oil than to the car oil because zinc is a poison to catalytic converters. You will also see that some "car" oil contains more than their motorcycle oil. The difference in zinc content between .11% and .16% is insignificant to the converter. The little data I saw on the oils packaged by the motorcycle manufacturers indicated that they were no better than the top automotive oils. While most were good, they didn't offer anything the cheaper oils do. (They are in reality just repackaged and in some cases slightly reformulated top grade auto oils). The following is a slightly modified repost of my original article. I have added a few bits that address some FAQs. ___________________________________________________________________________ ** Data on Syntec I just recieved this data from our local oil distributor. It is the update on the new Mobil 1 formulation and that for the new Castrol Syntec. They did not have the numbers for the new Valvoline Synthetics yet. The data on the new Mobil 1 is pretty impressive. Based on these numbers, price, and availiability, there is little need to look further for a synthetic oil. The Syntec seems to be compromised by it's wide viscosity range. Notice that the pour point is for all practical purposes, no better than the Mobil 1 15W-50. (actually, it's not as good) While, meeting the viscosity parmeters, the wide range is probably for marketing purposes. The Mobil 1 15W-50 will pump at -35 degrees F, which is as good as some conventinal 5W-30 oils. Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec), will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in their advertising. The ability to cling to metal walls is due to the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to Castrol's formulation. The Data: (add to your current article) Brand and Weight VI Flash Pour %ash %zinc Syntec 5W-50 180 437 -49 1.2 0.10 Mobil 1 5W-30 165 445 -65 --- --- 10W-30 160 450 -65 --- --- 15W-50 170 470 -55 --- --- Ed Hackett edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu The Desert Research Institute DoD #0200 WMTC BMWRA DIOC Reno, Nevada (702) 673-7380 KotLS KtoLE DotD #0003 I'm not really a chemist, I'm just one of 900SS K100RS 501 CAMEL them motorsickle sonsabitches. __=o&o>__ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------From Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Sat Nov 4 15:50 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA20761; Sat, 4 Nov 1995 15:50:11 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from usc.edu by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HX9199POKW0030O0@UG.EDS.COM>; Sat, 04 Nov 1995 15:45:58 -0700 (PDT) Received: from lipari.usc.edu by usc.edu (8.6.12/SMI-3.0DEV3-USC+3.1) id QAA15658; Fri, 3 Nov 1995 16:23:56 -0800 Received: from hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov ([128.158.30.236]) by lipari.usc.edu (8.7.1/8.6.7+ucs) with SMTP id QAA01433 for ; Fri, 3 Nov 1995 16:23:53 -0800 (PST) Received: by hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov (1.38.193.5/16.2) id AA01829; Fri, 3 Nov 1995 18:18:09 -0600 Received: by x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov via Worldtalk with X400 (3.0.3/1.55) id WT29350.54; Fri, 03 Nov 1995 18:18:08 CST Date: Fri, 03 Nov 1995 18:17:47 -0600 From: Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Subject: My two cents worth To: jan@lipari.usc.edu Message-Id: <"Macintosh */PRMD=MSFC/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/"@MHS> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO My two cents worth Hi Jan! I thought I'd relay my experiences using synlubes in VW/Audi's .... I've been using Amsoil in VW/Audi products for 17 years (over 300,000 total miles) with extremely good results. I change the oil in my cars once a year (w/ a filter change @ 6 mts, using the Amsoil filters) with no problems. I've run the same batch of Amsoil for 22,000 in my 1990 Audi 100 - I then had some of this oil tested and it was still good for continued use. Based on my experience, a conservative change interval for Amsoil is 12k-15k/1 year. I also use the Amsoil ATF and synthetic gear lube with excellent results. I have calculated a 5%-8% increase in fuel efficiency in everything I've put Amsoil in - I save about ?100.00 a year in fuel in my two cars. Both my VW (1985 Jetta) and Audi have about 100k miles and the engines/transmissions are like new. The peak oil temps in my Audi dropped by 15-20 degrees C after I switched over to the Amsoil 10w-30. BTW, I've had no problems running the 10w-30 year 'round here in Huntsville, AL. (Amsoils 10w-30 is practially a 10w-40 and it runs cooler, so it doesn't thin out as much - warm oil pressure at idle is 2 bar). I work as a materials engineer with NASA (Marshall Space Flight Center) and have researched synthetic lubricants since the late 1970's. There is absolutely no comparison between a properly formulated synthetic (proper being the key word here) and a petroleum lube. I've been so impressed with Amsoil that I started selling it on the side some years ago - most of the engineers I work with are using it now with equally good results, in everything from chainsaws (Amsoils' 100:1 two cycle oil) to a forty foot SeaRay with twin 454 c.i. inboards. If you have any technical questions regarding synlubes, please drop me a line. BTW,I enjoy the internet dialog alot - although I find there is quite a bit of mis-information, someone picking up a comment and repeating it as gospel! Sincerely, Ted Kublin From Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Mon Nov 6 14:58 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA03705; Mon, 6 Nov 1995 14:58:49 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov (128.158.30.236) by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HXBS38ZGZ4002TDD@UG.EDS.COM>; Mon, 06 Nov 1995 14:55:25 -0700 (PDT) Received: by hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov (1.38.193.5/16.2) id AA24016; Mon, 6 Nov 1995 16:16:32 -0600 Received: by x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov via Worldtalk with X400 (3.0.3/1.55) id WT18945.143; Mon, 06 Nov 1995 16:16:32 CST Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 16:16:00 -0600 From: Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Subject: Comparisons To: jan@UG.EDS.COM Message-Id: <"Macintosh */PRMD=MSFC/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/"@MHS> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Comparisons Hi again Jan! As far as what's on the market, I've compared the manufacturers spec sheets for Amsoil and Mobil 1, product for product, and the high and low temperature properties of Amsoil are clearly better. In addition it does better in the Shell Four Ball Wear Test, which is an ASTM approved procedure and an industry standard for comparing the wear protection of lubricants. From a materials standpoint then, you would expect Amsoil to hold up better and provide lower oil consumption - this is validated by what customers of mine who've tried both products have told me. Amsoil and Mobil are ahead of the others in using blended basestocks (PAO + Ester), by blending you can get a synergistic effect and optimize the physical/chemical properties. I don't like the Syntec 5w-50 viscosity, which is kind of a "one size fits all" approach. Most modern engines have very tight component clearances and oil passages and a 50wt oil is much too viscous to flow properly - it's also hard on the oil pump and promotes low fuel economy, due to increased drag. It also has a very high percentage of viscosity index improvers, which tend to get physically sheared by the mechanical action of the engine and cause deposits. Amsoil is a small company compared to Mobil/Castrol/Valvoline, etc ... if they just made an average product they wouldn't be able to stay in business. Their market niche has always been to make the absolute best products available, regardless of price. Most of the recent additions to the synlube market are primarily there because they know that most people but oil out of brand loyalty ("well, my dad always used ...") and they are hedging their bets that the market will grow. As some final food for thought, Amsoil fully warrantees all their lubricants for greatly extended use (ie: 25k/1 year for the engine oil - even if the car is under warranty), whereas the other oil makers want you to follow the car manufacturers change recommendations - I think this speaks as to their relative confidence in the products they are selling. I don't know what you're using now (Redline?), but I think if you try Amsoil, you'll see a noticable improvement in overall operating characteristics. I'd suggest Amsoils' new Series 2000, 20w-50 racing oil - if provides three times the wear protection of Mobil 1 or Redline, as measured in the Shell four ball test. I'm running it in my Audi now and am very pleased. Ted From Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Wed Nov 8 07:51 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA10076; Wed, 8 Nov 1995 07:51:20 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov (128.158.30.236) by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HXE5PU5NIO002VYO@UG.EDS.COM>; Wed, 08 Nov 1995 07:47:53 -0700 (PDT) Received: by hpx400.msfc.nasa.gov (1.38.193.5/16.2) id AA15451; Wed, 8 Nov 1995 09:42:05 -0600 Received: by x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov via Worldtalk with X400 (3.0.3/1.55) id WT11588.59; Wed, 08 Nov 1995 09:42:05 CST Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 09:41:50 -0600 From: Ted.Kublin%QMGW@x400gw.msfc.nasa.gov Subject: Apples 'n Orange To: jan@UG.EDS.COM Message-Id: <"Macintosh */PRMD=MSFC/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/"@MHS> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Apples 'n Orange Hi again Jan! You're really making me work for this, aren't you? There seems to be some confusion regarding the SAE numbers for lubes ... the first number, with the "w" is the viscosity of the oil @ 0 degrees Centigrade (32 F), the second number is the viscosity @ 100 degrees C (212 F) - at first these seem arbitrary, but you'll note these are the freeze/boiling temps of water. I think the poor low temp showing of Castrol Syntec is also due to the V.I. improvers - for use in VW's/Audi's, the Flash Point and Noack volatility (a european test) are more important. The flash point is the lowest temp at which the oil vapor can be ignited - a good measure of high temp stability ... in the Noack volatility test the oil is held at an elevated temp and the % of weight loss (oil evaporation) is measured - this corrolates well with oil consumption, due to "burning" in service ... let's look at a comparison of volatility ... Mobil 1 (15w-50): 5.5 % Castrol Syntec (5w-50): 16.9 % Amsoil Series 2000 (20w-50): 4.47% There are five main reasons why you can run a properly formulated synthetic for an extended time .... 1) Much more resistant to heat and oxygen (synthetics break down much more slowly, alot of what you think is contamination is simply chemical degradation of the oil). In my VW, where I've run Amsoil since new, the oil is still transparent on the dipstick after 10k-12k miles, although it's a dark amber color. 2) Better detergency/dispersency (can keep the engine clean over an extended period and hold more contaminents in suspension - part of your question) 3) Much higher synthetic oil film strength (3000 psi vs 500-600 psi for dino) means greatly improved piston ring seal (alot less "blowby contaminents into the crankcase) 4) Amsoil has a very high degree of reserve alkalinity (measured as Total Base Number, or TBN), so is capable of neutralizing more acid formation (primarily nitric acid in gas engines, sulfuric acid in diesels, from sulfur in the fuel) 5) Specific to Amsoil; they have developed very high quality air/oil filters, to allow you to keep contaminents out of the oil over an extended service life. Most engine wear is abrasive wear from contaminents in the 5-20 micron range, too small to be filtered out by conventional filters. Amsoil air filters are an oil-wetted polyurethane foam and their oil filters are designed to filter down to 10-15 microns, vs 25 microns for a typical department store filter. If I was using another synthetic, I think I'd still use the Amsoil filters. 6) The additive packages that Amsoil uses are formulated to last a very long time. One of their long term suppliers is a company called Lubrizol, they formulate oil additives for all the major oil companies and have worked with Amsoil for over 20 years to develop unique additive packages for each formulation (one reason why Amsoil is priced higher than other synthetics is due to the additives used - the best available and very expensive) 7) Amsoil introduced the first synthetic motor oil, in the world, in 1972 - they simply have more experience with synthetics - they currently make about 30 different lubes. Note: most of these factors are true about all synthetics, but not to the same extent - based on the data I've seen, there is alot more variation in the quality of the synthetic oils on the market than petroleum oils, where everyone is starting with the same basic raw material - crude oil. One thing to note about Audi/VW oil recommendations - these are biased toward european driving conditions, using petroleum oils - using a synthetic in the US, with much slower speeds and lower oil temps, you can go to a lighter oil (5w-30 or 10w-30 for Amsoil) and get better performance. Amsoil is carried by a number of independent auto repair shops and specialty automotive outlets, I'm sure you can find a place that carries it nearby, just look in the Yellow Pages under "oils, lubricating". What I've done for years is to register as an Amsoil "dealer" (read: wholesale buyer) for ?20.00/yr and order it directly - they ship UPS in 2-3 days. The only requirement to remain registered is to pay the annual fee - you're not required to maintain any inventory and their are no minimum purchase requirements. They'll ship the lubricants in everything from 6 quart cases to 55 gallon drums; the filters are available individually. This saves you about 20% off retail. The new series 2000 20w-50 stuff retails for ?7.50/qt - service life is 10k-15k or one year, depending on service. If you have a VR6, they hold alot of oil (6-7 qts ?), my Audi only holds 4.5 qts and the oil holds up well there, so you shouldn't have any problem. See Ya Ted From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Fri Jan 5 19:07 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA28070; Fri, 5 Jan 1996 19:07:48 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HZNUAEYGHS000YGW@UG.EDS.COM>; Fri, 05 Jan 1996 19:05:00 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id SAA22221 for corrado-l-outgoing; Fri, 5 Jan 1996 18:42:57 -0800 Received: from utarlg.uta.edu (utarlg.uta.edu [129.107.1.16]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id SAA22205 for ; Fri, 5 Jan 1996 18:42:54 -0800 Received: from UTARLG.UTA.EDU by UTARLG.UTA.EDU (PMDF V5.0-4 #8453) id <01HZNXORKL2OA0836W@UTARLG.UTA.EDU> for corrado-l@teleport.com; Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:42:51 -0500 (CDT) Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 20:42:51 -0500 (CDT) From: htt1743@UTARLG.UTA.EDU Subject: Re: oil change = big $ In-Reply-To: Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO If you want you can switch to AMSOil. It costs about $6 a quart and the filter costs about $8. You save because the recommended change interval of these oil is 25,000 miles or one year whichever comes first. The filter is said to filter down to 5 microns compared with others which filters down to 40 microns. The filter last 6 months. So far everybody I've talked to that uses this oil do change it once a year and said that they have not had a problem yet. I just started using it and driven my car for about 1000 miles now. I checked the dipstick and it seems the oil is still very clear. -Huey '90 G60 HKS,Momo Arrows From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Mon Feb 19 09:57 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA08750; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:57:53 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I1E692HDHS00CPQY@UG.EDS.COM>; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:56:38 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id JAA09971; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:52:28 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:52:23 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id JAA09887 for corrado-l-outgoing; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:52:20 -0800 Received: from gemsgw.med.ge.com (gemsgw.med.ge.com [192.88.230.10]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id JAA09806 for ; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 09:52:14 -0800 Received: from gemed.med.ge.com (gemed.med.ge.com [3.7.12.4]) by gemsgw.med.ge.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) with ESMTP id LAA17874 for ; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 11:50:45 -0600 Received: from iscmed.med.ge.com (iscmed [3.7.192.170]) by gemed.med.ge.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) with SMTP id LAA18665; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 11:51:14 -0600 Received: from nsc-pm0-dn4 by iscmed.med.ge.com (5.x/SMI-SVR4) id AA23140; Mon, 19 Feb 1996 11:50:11 -0600 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 11:50:10 -0600 From: jayk@iscmed.med.ge.com (Kevin Jay) Subject: Re: Mobil 1--synthetic oils Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: jayk@iscmed.med.ge.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Cc: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: jayk@iscmed.med.ge.com (Kevin Jay) Message-Id: <9602191750.AA23140@iscmed.med.ge.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 1.4.4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO At 12:08 PM 2/19/96 -0500, Hulda Jowett wrote: > >Amsoil offers a bypass filter which you run in conjunction with your >regular filter. Back in the early '80s, a buddy of mine drove a '75 530i. The car was just beat when he bought it (except for a new head), so we rebuilt the motor with the help of a good machine shop. After the first 1K miles, we added an Amsoil bypass filter and 20w50 Amsoil racing oil. For the next 60K or so, my buddy Doug just beat the hell out of this car. AutoX-ed it; drove it hard all the time. At 60K, the front seal blew. Don't know why. Well, he'd not had the head done the first time we tore it down, and with the blown front seal and all, we figured - "what the hell, let's tear the whole damn thing down again". Once apart, the condition of the motor was simply amazing. Looked as if we'd just gotten it back from the machine shop that day. No measurable bearing wear; looked is if the cylinders had just been honed that afternoon. I believe Doug changed his oil every 10K or so ... but we've always believed the immaculate condition of the motor was owing to the bypass filter. I'd reccommend these things _very_ highly. = Kevin Jay ('92 SLC, black/black, 61.5K) ... HEY, IS THAT A _GEO_??!